At the beginning of May we took our Spring holiday, and got into the car for a tour up through Wales to Chester and Knutsford. My brother has recently moved to a farm just above Aberfan, and this is the view down the Merthyr valley towards the Brecon Beacons.
There was no way I was going to miss out Llangollen. I had heard about the Ladies who once lived there in a house called Plas Nwydd (below).
Who were they? Lady Eleanor Butler and Lady Sarah Ponsonby - Anglo-Irish aristocrats who in 1778 fled Ireland for Wales, Lady Eleanor to avoid being sent to a convent, and Lady Sarah to escape the unwanted attentions of her guardian. They wanted to live the 18th Century ideal of a romantic friendship, and with begrudging financial support from their families, succeeded in doing so for over fifty years. Their friendship intrigued their contemporaries and their many visitors included Josiah Wedgewood, Wordsworth, Scott, Lord Byron, the Duke of Wellington and Lady Caroline Lamb, who was a kinswoman of Sarah Ponsonby.
Plas Nwydd is on the outskirts of Llangollen. It is on the River Dee (see above), which flows through North Wales to Chester (below).
Chester was once a large walled Roman town. The walls have survived, and the amphitheatre has only recently been excavated. The timbered merchants' houses in the main streets, although they look medieval are in fact later, the model for them being Little Moreton Hall, an absolutely fantastic timbered manor house a few miles south of Knutsford in Cheshire (see below).
What is so special about it? It is almost wholly Tudor. Building work started in about 1500, with wings being added over the next 100 years. No part of it is later than 1600. It belonged to the same family for centuries and has been preserved intact, if not exactly straight - you can see the wobbly bit in the photo. The inner courtyard is below. Nice tearoom too!
Knutsford itself is, of course, Elizabeth Gaskell's Cranford. Shown below is a cobbled courtyard which is off the High Street where many period buildings have survived.
Knutsford is quite a bustling place, especially in the evening with so many places to eat. Quarrybank Mill and the Brontes' Haworth were the next places on the itinerary but I'll save those for the next post.
There was no way I was going to miss out Llangollen. I had heard about the Ladies who once lived there in a house called Plas Nwydd (below). 
Who were they? Lady Eleanor Butler and Lady Sarah Ponsonby - Anglo-Irish aristocrats who in 1778 fled Ireland for Wales, Lady Eleanor to avoid being sent to a convent, and Lady Sarah to escape the unwanted attentions of her guardian. They wanted to live the 18th Century ideal of a romantic friendship, and with begrudging financial support from their families, succeeded in doing so for over fifty years. Their friendship intrigued their contemporaries and their many visitors included Josiah Wedgewood, Wordsworth, Scott, Lord Byron, the Duke of Wellington and Lady Caroline Lamb, who was a kinswoman of Sarah Ponsonby.
Plas Nwydd is on the outskirts of Llangollen. It is on the River Dee (see above), which flows through North Wales to Chester (below). 
Chester was once a large walled Roman town. The walls have survived, and the amphitheatre has only recently been excavated. The timbered merchants' houses in the main streets, although they look medieval are in fact later, the model for them being Little Moreton Hall, an absolutely fantastic timbered manor house a few miles south of Knutsford in Cheshire (see below). 
What is so special about it? It is almost wholly Tudor. Building work started in about 1500, with wings being added over the next 100 years. No part of it is later than 1600. It belonged to the same family for centuries and has been preserved intact, if not exactly straight - you can see the wobbly bit in the photo. The inner courtyard is below. Nice tearoom too!
Knutsford itself is, of course, Elizabeth Gaskell's Cranford. Shown below is a cobbled courtyard which is off the High Street where many period buildings have survived. 
Knutsford is quite a bustling place, especially in the evening with so many places to eat. Quarrybank Mill and the Brontes' Haworth were the next places on the itinerary but I'll save those for the next post.
Sure you're not been paid by the local tourist industry? I love your photos, they'de get me visiting the area anytime soon. The biuildings look awesome. And your research intrigues.
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing.
It must seem like it Sherry! But no, it's just something I love to do, and I now have the time to do, with family and with friends. Britain is so small compared to the US that even one week's holiday can see you comfortably covering the ground from Land's End to John O'Groats and taking in some interesting places on the way. A couple of years ago we went to Arizona, and two weeks wasn't enough time to see all we wanted in that state let alone the other - what is it now? - 50 states?
ReplyDeleteMaggi
Maggie, these photos are absolutely gorgeous and I love hearing about the history! Makes me want to jump on a plane and visit!
ReplyDeleteLovely! Memo to self: sell more books so you can afford to travel...
ReplyDeleteHi Liz and hello Cindy. I know what you mean Cindy about selling more books. I'm taking advantage of places I can afford to reach, but a big boost to the finances would send me back to the USA as quick as a shot. I'm as interested in American history as British, which is why I'm enjoying on television the American version of 'Who do you think you are?'. I don't suppose you've seen the British version over there? Kevin Whateley and Martin Freeman's stories were spellbinding.
ReplyDeleteMaggi
Hello, Maggi,
ReplyDeleteWonderful photos! I've always wanted to visit Wales. Your post only confirms my desire. Did you already know all this history? Or did you look it up?
Hugs,
Lisabet
Hello Lisabet,
ReplyDeleteWales is beautiful and it has some stunning coastline, a lot of which I haven't seen yet either. There's industry too of course, and the 'Valleys' can look gloomy in winter in overcast and wet weather, of which Wales has its fair share.
When it comes to history, I'm a sponge. Sometimes I'll know about a place before I visit, and sometimes I won't. On daytime TV over here we have two antiques programmes 'Bargain Hunt' and 'Flog it'. Each has a 5-minute slot devoted to a special antique, person (eg Eleanor Coade) or place. When Plas Nwydd was featured it went straight to the top of my to-see list. I found out more about the Ladies before I visited and more afterwards. On the other hand, Little Moreton Hall I knew nothing about other than the fact that it was a National Trust property (I'm a member). That was what made it such an exciting discover. What a survivor.
Maggi
Super pictures, Maggi, and it was very nostalgic for me to read your post as well, as my godparents live in Knutsford and I love the town. Haven't been to Little Moreton Hall for a long time but your pictures reminded me of what a stunning place it is. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteWelcome Nicola,
ReplyDeleteI've yet to make it it to your Ashdown House, but I'll get there. Another house I'd like to see is 'a la Ronde' near Exmouth in Devon, where spinster cousins Mary and Jane Parminter set up home together after travelling around Europe for ten years. Another interesting story there.
Maggi
Beautiful photos, Maggi.
ReplyDeleteMy husband comes from just outside Llangollen, so I know the area well and, when the sun is shining, there is no better place to be.
The walk by the side of the river is particularly wonderful.
Best Wishes
Megan
I would like to go back to Llangollen, Megan. When we arrived it was 8am and we had that riverside walk to ourselves, but by the time we came out of Plas Nwydd, everybody and their mother had arrived. People were spilling out of the cafes and pubs. Quite a transformation, but then it was Bank Holiday Monday, and it was beautiful day.
ReplyDeleteMaggi